“The rocky ledge runs far into the sea,
And on its outer point, some miles away,
The Lighthouse lifts its massive masonry,
A pillar of fire by night, of cloud by day.
—from Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, “The Lighthouse”
Since 1792, a towering sandstone pillar has held a silent vigil at the southern entrance to the Chesapeake Bay — a critical defense, commerce and travel hub since the area’s settlement in 1607. The Cape Henry Lighthouse is not technically America’s oldest; that honor goes to the Sandy Hook Lighthouse in New Jersey, built just 28 years earlier. But the Cape Henry structure does have some unique bragging rights: it was the first lighthouse authorized by the brand-new U.S. government. A must-see for history buffs, it’s also just a lovely place to spend a few hours.
The New Nation’s Bright Future
First, let’s set the scene: it’s 1789, and the nascent United States of America is still recovering — physically, financially and emotionally — from the wholesale destruction of the Revolutionary War. On April 30th of that year, in the nation’s earliest capital of New York City, the first session of the United States Congress convened in Federal Hall. It was a BIG day for the new country! In addition to inaugurating its first President, George Washington, the Senate and House of Representatives met to select its officers, establish its rules and form the U.S. Treasury.
During this historic session, the humble customs collector for the nearby city of Hampton, Virginia, addressed the newly appointed Secretary of the Treasury, Alexander Hamilton. His plea: a soaring beacon to light the shores of Cape Henry — a notoriously dark passage that had already claimed 57 ships. Under the pressure of Congressional leadership, Hamilton agreed, and the new lighthouse became the first federal construction project under the new U.S. Constitution.
Building “A Pillar of Fire by Night”
Hamilton tapped rising architect John McComb Jr. for the project, for the original contract amount of $15,200 — nearly $500,000 in today’s money. McComb, who had worked on New York’s City Hall and was drawing up plans for President Washington’s residence, drafted a design inspired by Delaware’s Cape Henlopen Lighthouse. Rising 90 feet, the octagonal structure was constructed of Aquia Creek sandstone, from the same source as the bricks used to build the White House.
McComb’s lighthouse would guide ships to safety for nearly 100 years. Early lamps burned fish, sperm whale, colza and lard oils; in 1857, the lighthouse was fitted with a dioptric Fresnel lens. Damaged by the Confederate Army during the Civil War, the lighthouse was repaired in 1863 by Union forces, which relied upon it for navigation. Then, less than a decade later, a lightning strike caused catastrophic cracks — calling its overall structural integrity into question. In 1881, a second, slightly taller lighthouse was constructed just northeast of the original. The distinctive cast-and-wrought-iron structure stands 157 feet tall; today, still in use but closed to the public, it’s the only lighthouse on the Virginia coast still fitted with its first-order Fresnel lens.
Landmark Status for the Original
Remember those original Cape Henry settlers from 1607? After making the arduous four-and-a-half-month journey from England, the exhausted party of 144 seamen anchored their ships in the calm waters of the Chesapeake Bay and sent a small group ashore to christen their First Landing site in the New World “Cape Henry.” A few weeks later, this same group of settlers would travel to Jamestown — establishing the first permanent English Colony in North America.
It’s a storied site indeed. So it’s only fitting that in 1930, Preservation Virginia acquired the original lighthouse, adding a brick lining and iron stairway to the interior to accommodate visitors. It was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1964, and a National Historic Civil Engineering Landmark in 2002.
Get a Unique Perspective on History
Today, the Old Cape Henry Lighthouse sits on the active Fort Story Military Base and is open to the public seven days a week, from 10:00 a.m.–5:00 p.m., weather permitting. To visit — and climb the 191 narrow, winding steps to enjoy a breathtaking view of the bay — catch the shuttle at the base gate. There are also special events throughout the year, from informative talks like “Life of a Lighthouse Keeper” to kid-friendly crafting sessions like “Cards and Cookies for the Troops,” as well as a number of educational virtual experiences to provide background. Be sure to double-check base and lighthouse visitor requirements prior to your visiting.
Grab a Bite with an Ocean View
If you’re heading to the base in the morning, fuel up with a crab cake bennie at the bustling Bay Local Eatery. For hearty regional fare on the patio, try HK on the Bay; we love the tuna tacos and seafood nachos. Just need a coffee and a sweet treat before hitting the road? Swing by the Leaping Lizard Cafe for a Heath Bar brownie and a hot brew, to go.
Share this post
- History
- Things to Do
Written by Staci Amend
As a Californian living in Colorado, writer Staci Amend takes a “why not both” approach to the whole mountains vs. oceans debate. She covers travel, nature, beauty and fashion for a variety of publications and brands — and is happiest when surrounded by hand-painted tile, struggling to pronounce her next meal. A Huntington Beach native and longboarder, she tries to time her Virginia Beach visits with the East Coast Surfing Championships.
